Biotechnology

NAME: 


Natasha Hulse

STUDIO SUBJECT SPECIALISM:

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TOPIC: Identity, Environment OR Technology?

Technology.

Possible working title/question you want to ask?

Would the use of Bio-auxiliary in dyes and pigments make a vast modification in the textile industry environmentally and uphold the quality in colour we see today in dyes with toxic compounds?

Can the combination of technology and natural enzymes in biotechnology help to grow the fashion industry into a direction with a more sustainable future and meet global demands?

Description of research area – Describe your topic theme and the ‘angle’ you want to take on the theme:

Primarily I will investigate biotechnology, to achieve a greater understanding of what it really is. Than I will branch of into more specific areas looking at different enzymes and substitutes for the more toxic chemicals in colour dies.I will consider the different elements and effects toxic chemical waste has on the textile production process, and by changing substances how the industry is thereafter affected.The world is rapidly evolving and so must we, but is biotechnology and enzymes going to be a strong enough contestant to lead us to where we need to be with maintaining and improving quality and reducing waste at the same time. There are obvious arguments on the environmental impact that the fashion textile industry distributes presently. I will be looking at artists and designers who are practicing eco friendly fashion, how they are doing it and all the different scientific and technical practices they are carrying out. I am also going to be researching heavily into finding suitable substitutes for toxic pigment and other harsh chemicals used when manufacturing textile materials and if they have been successful or not? In general I will be addressing some major flaws in the textile industry and seeing possible ways to make them more environmentally responsive with the use of science and technology and how well they would sustain in fashion manufacturing with such high demanding output.

What might you want to discuss and why? What are the aims? What motivates you? (Relationship to studio practice)

I have started research on the positive environmental effect that attracts the textile industry to using biotechnology and the benefits this has on the environment.

Designers who practice environmentally friendly fashion and textiles through the use of technology and science.

Will the exchange of harsh chemicals with enzymes uphold standards that the fabric retail demands? 

How the textile industry is going to progress and move forward by using new innovative substitutes, to complement environmental needs more effectively.

How one plans to cater for their new evolved techniques and who will buy into this product because even though replacing toxic chemical process with more natural processes has its obvious advantages there are also a lot of underlined problems.

I will also be addressing how the chemicals in colorants cause high environmental burden’s and look into different species of bacteria as substitutes for the toxic chemicals.

What case studies/examples will you explore? (E.g. artists, designers, fashion collections, films, objects, images, magazines etc.)

Images:

Helen’s story so far has been a main source for exploring sustainable design with science behind it and her Catalytic Clothing.

'The woven wonder 'By Siddhartha Upadhyaya

'Biocouture'by Suzanne Lee

Technology made to measure garment by Sandy Black

I also will be exploring into different treatments to synthetic materials to make them more sustainable and using Kate Goldsworthy and Her project ‘Material Re-creation’ which address  modern “manufacturing processes and digital technologies to ‘upcycle’ synthetic materials.”

Fashion Designer:

Vivienne Westwood

Osklen

Alexander McQueen

Elvis & Kresse

Helen Storey

Jonathan sanders

Nu Bambu

Thomas Heatherwick

Berber Soepboe

Siddhartha Upadhyaya

Suzanne Lee

Sandy Black 

Kate Goldsworthy

What theories/ideas will you use to contextualize your discussion? (E.g. name particular theories, authors etc.)

T.E.D documentary’s and interviews on a sustainable future, with the use of science.

The company – bio green dyechemm which is proof of a successful company using biotechnological enzymes.

I will be looking at how the bio couture suzanne Lee micro organic garment will be explored and taken to the next step in development: http://www.designboom.com/weblog/cat/8/view/11565/suzanne-lee-biocouture-growing-textiles.html and using her book - "Fashioning The Future: tomorrow's wardrobe”, and the discussions and theories mentioned.

Where will you seek out your research? (E.g. name libraries, archives, collections, museums etc.)

Chelsea College of Art and Design Library

Csm library

The science museum

V&A Museum

The Natural History Museum

Somerset House

T.E.D

http://textilefutures.co.uk/

Name 3 possible key texts:

Impact and environment (Natural Resilience)

Enzymes and other substitutes for toxic chemicals

Modern technology 

Nagler Halls 220w 27th st.

View from my bedroom window.

The corridors.

My shared room.

Shared bathrooms.

How is F.I.T set out - 

You have to choose around 5 subjects which ad up to at least 12 credits. The topics I chose were:

Draping

Pattern Making 

Illustration

shoe design 

Adv. Photo shop Cad

I also had a meal plan which is a very good idea in which the university caters for you. There is a dining hall one opposite halls and halls are opposite the classrooms and studios, so it is very convenient.

I also shared a room with (Kat) which was so much fun and I had the best time so I strongly recommend it.

Fabric shops I went to were all in the garment district and there are some good ones in the lower East side. The one closest to F.I.T is MOOD which I loved……..

The time table is also flexible so by the choices you make in subject topic deciphers your timetable so you can really make it work for you…..

If you are unhappy with the topics, struggling or don't particularly like them you can drop them and pick up another one, however you have to do this in the first three weeks or so otherwise you are committed with them for 4 months. 

Around New York eating out …..

Pepe came to town !!!

My trip to Boston -

Grand Central station -

Laura came to town - The High line 

Me and Kitty kat and friends

Anna Banana took us to Ithaca gorges .

The Park

Me and Pepalateee at a concert 

The gang at the pier 

My Birthday 

My sisters, my best friend and myself 

all walkingto Narnia cloths shop 

nyc

Brooklyn:

Brooklyn flea market - 

 Around New York - 

This is the view from the draping room at F.I.T

Mr Whiskerson Mr Whiskerson - you fat cat, you!

THE SUBWAY 

The Subway walls are decorated with different sculptural pieces, mosaics etc.

The Met- 

The met has the most amazing ancient Greek and Egyptian artifacts.

Moma 

Willem de Kooning

Natalie’s birthday - 

My sisters coming to surprise me !

Draping and pattern making

class one:
cut x2 -muslin (canvas) material:
27x13
Rules:
cut the salvage off .
cut along the straight grain.


-block the fabric- pull it into shape-


1, square a line down the long side (27'') 1'' from the edge of the material.
2, than from the short side (13'')  measure 9'' and draw a line down which crosses over the 27'' line.




mannequin


put some black take around the mannequin 7'' down from waist line- pin every princes line and in between every princess line as well.


-front of mannequin skirt-


Get material on mannequin after folding and finger pressing down the long side - fold on the 1'' line. line up the centre fold marked on the material with the 7'' line made earlier around the mannequin.


-making the dart -


Along the waist from the princess line to the right go    along  5/8''           and            down 3 and 1/2''


from the left of the LAST DART- New Dart.


1 and 1/4'' from the last dart to the left  make new dart (5/8'' along 3and1/2'' down).
 -make sure i am gentile when making the darts-


than mark along the waist line with pencil - - - - - - - -


back of mannequin -skirt


make sure the pins face \ (opposite way to the front of mannequin) otherwise they move.


make sure centre lines are lined up.
Dart
first dart from the left of princess line.
1'' across and 5 1/2'' down.


2nd dart 1'1/4'' from last dart
N.B-
[If you have a big bottom the dart will be short and wider vise verse skinny bottom]


Re - measuring. 


-To find the middle of dart measure full width and divide in half.

finishing 


make sure from he waist line its 17'' down on both pieces.












WEEK 5 -


DRAPING AND PLEATING THE MUSLIN SKIRT ON THE MANNEQUIN.


1, New piece of muslin square a 9 and 1/2 = hip line x2=19'' + 1 = 20'' for the width of the muslin
so 19 ''is the width of the muslin and you add 1'' seam allowance.

2, Choose a length for skirt - 23 add 2'' for seam allowance.

3, On the top of the skirt add 1/2''.

4, Draw a line 9'' down from top of skirt = hip line.

5, Sew along the newly drawn hip line and bunch up.

6, Fold down and finger press the 1'' seam allowance that I added in earlier.

7, place on mannequin and pin in necessary parts.

8, Pleat and fold in by the waist.

9, Use twill tape over pleats and align with waist line on mannequin and pencil in the waist and were the new pleats and folds now lie.

10, Take off mannequin take out hip line sewing and remove pins -  match up the the 2'' seam allowances and sew together.

11, Use the hip curve and blend were waist line bashes were marked on mannequin the new waist line.

Waist band-

The class room 

Many weeks later:

Finished Garment -

with a Mutton top sleeve, flared skirt, mid rift, yoke and convertible collar. 

Pattern Making final Garment-

The brief was to make this jacket with a bell sleeve-

The Class room 

All of our classe’s jackets with different sleeves :

The finished garment.