Draping and pattern making

class one:
cut x2 -muslin (canvas) material:
27x13
Rules:
cut the salvage off .
cut along the straight grain.


-block the fabric- pull it into shape-


1, square a line down the long side (27'') 1'' from the edge of the material.
2, than from the short side (13'')  measure 9'' and draw a line down which crosses over the 27'' line.




mannequin


put some black take around the mannequin 7'' down from waist line- pin every princes line and in between every princess line as well.


-front of mannequin skirt-


Get material on mannequin after folding and finger pressing down the long side - fold on the 1'' line. line up the centre fold marked on the material with the 7'' line made earlier around the mannequin.


-making the dart -


Along the waist from the princess line to the right go    along  5/8''           and            down 3 and 1/2''


from the left of the LAST DART- New Dart.


1 and 1/4'' from the last dart to the left  make new dart (5/8'' along 3and1/2'' down).
 -make sure i am gentile when making the darts-


than mark along the waist line with pencil - - - - - - - -


back of mannequin -skirt


make sure the pins face \ (opposite way to the front of mannequin) otherwise they move.


make sure centre lines are lined up.
Dart
first dart from the left of princess line.
1'' across and 5 1/2'' down.


2nd dart 1'1/4'' from last dart
N.B-
[If you have a big bottom the dart will be short and wider vise verse skinny bottom]


Re - measuring. 


-To find the middle of dart measure full width and divide in half.

finishing 


make sure from he waist line its 17'' down on both pieces.












WEEK 5 -


DRAPING AND PLEATING THE MUSLIN SKIRT ON THE MANNEQUIN.


1, New piece of muslin square a 9 and 1/2 = hip line x2=19'' + 1 = 20'' for the width of the muslin
so 19 ''is the width of the muslin and you add 1'' seam allowance.

2, Choose a length for skirt - 23 add 2'' for seam allowance.

3, On the top of the skirt add 1/2''.

4, Draw a line 9'' down from top of skirt = hip line.

5, Sew along the newly drawn hip line and bunch up.

6, Fold down and finger press the 1'' seam allowance that I added in earlier.

7, place on mannequin and pin in necessary parts.

8, Pleat and fold in by the waist.

9, Use twill tape over pleats and align with waist line on mannequin and pencil in the waist and were the new pleats and folds now lie.

10, Take off mannequin take out hip line sewing and remove pins -  match up the the 2'' seam allowances and sew together.

11, Use the hip curve and blend were waist line bashes were marked on mannequin the new waist line.

Waist band-

The class room 

Many weeks later:

Finished Garment -

with a Mutton top sleeve, flared skirt, mid rift, yoke and convertible collar. 

Pattern Making final Garment-

The brief was to make this jacket with a bell sleeve-

The Class room 

All of our classe’s jackets with different sleeves :

The finished garment. 

Footwear

-Masking tape the bottom of the last cris cross the tape

so the structure when is pulled off does not brake - 

-Pull of after tracing round the edge- 

-Trace the outline of the bottom of the last and take it off and place onto oak tag, flatten it out smooth it down with handles of scissors -

NB-  must be completely smooth.

-Than cut out, outline-

-Than mask the whole of the last- not the bottom follow the last round and not force the movement. criss cross.

-Mark the centre back and than cut down the line to pull off.-

to find the centre point on the back measure the top to the bottom -7.8cm x 0.25 = 1.95cm 

mark from the top 1.95cm down and mark as the centre point. 

  

-Mark the front centre line -

-To find the vamp measure the top to the bottom which is - 9cm 

than 9cm x 0.2= 1.8 

1.8 is the measurement that you mark from the top and mark that as your front centre point. 

-Mark inside and the outside  so when peeled off I know. 

-Smooth onto oak tag and cut out-

-Trace the outside and inside template over each other keeping the markings, draw a straight from toe and curve up keep all markings. 

The Class room- 

Final making - 

My patterns sewn together:

My last and pattern being constructed together.

 Petronio’s cement- sticky stuff needed to hold the shoe together !

 Some resemblance of a shoe:

The Heal covered and backed twice :

Final Pair of velvety shoes:

To summarise - 

My trip to New York was an unforgettable one, I not only learnt everything I have always wanted too, but picked up other skills along the way, which have really developed my perception on industry standard and my design ability in textiles. I feel I have grown a lot more and become more mature in my design. I met the most incredible people, and learnt life long skills which I will use every day!! It was an incredible opportunity and I feel incredibly fortunate to have had the chance to experience New York and The Fashion Institute Of Technology. The Erasmus scheme was incredible and so worth while, I learnt vast amounts in a short period of time and the excitement of being in a new city was great, I feel it was easy to emerge yourself into university life because of the work load and fast pace. My favourite classes were shoe design and construction and illustration and surprisingly Adobe, C.A.D after the first month struggling, I felt I really persevered and gained huge amounts from that. Pattern making and Draping were harder and came less naturally to me, however I also persevered and came out with a good first understanding of it. There was also chances to participate in New York Fashion week which was very exciting and I manage to work as a dresser for Bebe and J.Cheikh at there fashion shows, which was very interesting seeing how fashion week worked in New York and how the European fashion differs from American. All in all, I am extremely happy with my experience and would do it all over again.